Wood Wisdom

Fixing Gaps

Glue and dust get the job done

Perfection in woodworking is a goal... but seldom a reality. Even the best among us encounter gaps in joints now and then. To fix them, you can use a variety of techniques. Cyanoacrylate glue (“super glue”) comes in various viscosities, and can mask small cracks with aplomb. Spread some of the thick variety into the crack, and immediately rub some fine sanding dust into the joint using your finger (icky) or a flexible knife, such as an artist's palette knife. The mixture will harden in seconds, at which point you can sand it smooth. Repeat this process a few times until the gaps are filled and level. Subsequent sanding with finer sandpaper and a coat of finish over the area will hide the repair. If the gap is more substantial, you can glue a small wedge into the opening. Let the glue dry, pare the wedge flush with a chisel, and sand it smooth. No one will see your 'flaw.'

Another approach is to wait until you’ve applied the final coat of finish to the piece, including the problem area. After the last coat dries, fill any gaps by rubbing over them with moderate pressure using a colored wax crayon. These crayons come in just about every wood color imaginable, and are available wherever you buy finishing supplies. Finish by buffing the area with a soft cloth to remove the excess wax.

Easing Edges

Just say no to sharp

Easing the edges of your work is a simple task that can make a good project great. Sadly, it’s often overlooked. Miss this step, and hard edges may splinter, causing hands to recoil as they pass over sharp edges. Not only do soft edges make your furniture more durable and inviting to touch, they highlight your good joints and flat surfaces by creating controlled shadow lines instead of the hard, mechanized, and often jagged angles and lines that tooling leaves. Be sure to ease all sharp edges, whether they’re handled or simply seen.

You can cut larger bevels or roundovers using router bits or small planes. Alternatively, you can just hand-sand an edge until it has a subtle but consistent feel and look. For a fine line and more control, use a flat block of hard wood with fine sandpaper tightly wrapped around it. For example, use the block to kiss the corners of a drawer front, maintaining its crisp lines while softening the razor-like edge.

Spinning a Finish

Turn up the speed

It’s easy to apply a finish to turned work spinning on the lathe. Wiping varnishes and shellac work very well for this technique. Set the speed to about 500 rpm, move the tool rest well out of the way, and use a soft, lint-free cloth formed into a pad to disperse finish onto the work. If you’re using varnish, let it soak into the wood for a few moments, apply a little more finish to the pad, then buff to a pleasing sheen. Shellac is even easier: Keep padding on the finish to the spinning work until the desired sheen is achieved. The frictional heat dries the finish quickly, letting you build up a slick shine in no time.